please don't tell too many people (part two)...

Dear diablog,

How can one do justice to one of the most cultured and beautiful cities of the world..

Vienna.

Thanks to Pete for the Ultravox song in a previous post - not only does it invoke the intricacies and beauty of the real thing, it is also an excellent piece of music.

I could eulogise for hours on this fabulous place (which I have been fortunate enough to visit on numerous occasions) but thought a taster from the last trip may whet your appetite.

There are some who for, to them valid reasons, won't go to Austria.
Their loss our gain!


The above shot (hey Pete, thanks for showing me how to hold a camera) is as good a place to start as any.

Next door is the home of the Lippizzaners - go at least once, stunning-

Not far away, the beautiful baroque Annakirche church (several images) where I was lucky enough to attend a  concert, in an area with hundreds of excellent coffee shops and restaurants for all types of food, of which my personal favourite is

brimming with style, newspapers of all sorts and excellent pastries..

Talking of which, everyone knows of Sachertorte from the exceptional Hotel Sacher but on this trip I discovered Sacherwurstel which is a sort of frankfurter served with mustard and horseradish



and with great syle and absolutely delicious - if not nose clearing! Just the job for a cold winter's day.

However, for a real Winter pre Christmas treat, the impressive and proliferating markets and punsch stalls to be found on any open space

take a lot of beating, but I can give you two really special ideas which won't appear in your guide book...

Both have splendid but totally different food (note that as usual I was marching on my stomach!!). The first is a shopping and eating experience in what were Roman Baths which became the Stock Exchange and now houses an eclectic garden centre with highly civilised dining

(see I have even given you the address - it is in the financial district), where in the main hall is to be found the most wonderful (at Christmas, but varied to suit the season) selection of ultra stylish 'fashion' baubles and specialist items a la Liberty's mixed with Conran,

whilst at the end is a terrific restaurant for early morning coffee or delicious lunch - let the shoppers look and buy, you sit and read the paper!

or, and where I met the lady who allowed me to photo her lunch and gave me the intro line to this, you must, must go to

which is off the main drag (ask for Dorotheergasse and look up to see the sign) where the worlds best open sandwiches are served on pumpernickel bread and everything is made on site. You will struggle to select what you want as the queue shuffles forward there are so many things on offer, and have beer, punsch or sekt as the drink.

Returning for a second to the first photo, to the right and about 200 meters away is one of the nuttiest hat shops ever (excuse the pun). Florence (another wonderful city) has the best glove shop in the world on the other side of Ponte Vecchio, Vienna has



where a delightful lady who looks and acts like a '30's film star (she may even be one) designs and makes the most eclectic, wonderful, strange and imaginative range of both male and female headgear imaginable. Well worth popping in, though it can be expensive, and I have never been able to leave without some purchase or other.

Finally, a real recommendation and 'must' if you have the time. Outside (just) central Vienna is Grinsing. I think Vienna is the only city in the world to include a vinyard district. It is full of Heurige, which are wine cellars that serve traditional food along with their own (usually white) wines. Most are beseiged with tourist buses and rarely frequented by Viennese but there is one jewel - tucked away and not the easiest to find but you must try Heuriger Feuerwehr Wagner. I will be shot at dawn for telling you about this but I cannot go without at least one dinner there with the most amazing schnitzels (choice of pork, veal or chicken) and fantastic salads which, until you have eaten one, defy description

 which must be eaten accompanied by their 'young' wine and fizzy water as a spritzer

in vast quantities (both food and drink!!!!) in a very traditional setting

Note the traditional and still working 'heater'! Truly a superb evening if shared with a group of friends - of which mine in this city are among the most charming. Thanks P and M.

I leave you, diablog, with some pics of Heuriger WW ready, as I hope are you, for Christmas

Have a great Christmas diablog, I know I will,

Glynsky